Monday, October 24, 2011

Cat and Bug Update

Sisi has a bad habit of sitting on the bath mat right behind me when I am at the sink. I have a reciprocal bad habit of turning away from the sink and taking a step without looking where I am going.  So far, no one has been injured but it is only a matter of time.
Sisi seems a bit down in the dumps. Or maybe the heat is making her lethargic, since some of the weight I have lost, she has clearly found, and it may just be too much to be carrying around in the heat.  She let Pudi play with a cockroach the other day and she never ate it.  Maybe she is training Pudi, but I don’t think Pudi has any intention of ever eating them after she is done with them, so it is good I wear slippers in the house.  That is not something I EVER want to have to step on barefooted.
I hung my mosquito net up over my bed last week but haven’t used it properly and probably never will. Pudi sees it as just another thing to play with and if she puts holes in it it will defeat its purpose. Plus, I think it kind of makes me feel claustrophobic, so now I have raised it high enough so she can’t jump onto it and I don’t feel its presence when I lay in bed. I will just spray myself with bug repellant. When I am 70 or so, I will find out that this is the reason I am not going to live to 100, and I won’t complain then I promise.
Speaking of bug spray, I had an emotional moment last week when I took out the DOOM spray (this doesn’t get sprayed on the human body, but on the bodies of the critters) to spray some ants that had found the cat food bowl. These are the tiny normal sized ants, kind of cute in comparison to the others that have visited me from time to time. They periodically dig through the floor grout and cracks to make a beeline to the cat food. Normally I sweep them up or spray them or ignore them.  On this fateful day I sprayed the hole they were coming out of.
Then I noticed how four of these teeny guys were carrying a huge piece of cat food towards their now toxic home.  I suddenly felt deep remorse. I mean, they are among the hardest working and strongest per body weight beings on the planet, right?  Look at them!! What was I thinking??!! I quickly wet some paper towels and started to wipe up the DOOM off the floor and out of their little lair as best I could. I even started crying.
After a while of periodic checking on their status and more tears shed, I found them reconvening around the piece of food and I watched as they carried it home.  Am I going nuts or what? 
This morning, I came back from an overnight trip to Gaborone for the PC 50th Anniversary party and found that the LB Ants had invaded my kitchen sink and the bathtub.  I don’t feel the same affection for these guys, probably because they are near my dishes and sink and not on the floor in a corner.  Plus they just aren’t as cute. They are thirsty critters though and I understand that.  But the goofballs had managed to burrow into my sponge looking for water. I have no idea how to deal with that one. I can’t exactly DOOM the sponge I use to clean my dishes. And I really don’t want to spray them, but I don’t want to live with them either.  If the cats were at all interested in killing ants, I wouldn’t have this dilemma, I would just turn away and let “nature take its course.” 
So I have taken the approach that since it appears they only do this when I am gone for an overnight, now that I am home maybe they will take the hint and disperse.  If they haven’t by the time I want to take a bath or use my sink I will have to use more draconian methods. In the movie Seven Years in Tibet, the Buddhist monks moved every worm lovingly away from the site Brad Pitt was building on.  Not sure starting an ant farm is what I mean when I say I need to get some hobbies.

Setswana on the Fly

The kids in my neighborhood all know my name now. And patches of kids on my regular route to and from work do too. The younger school kids, age 7 to 10 or so are the ones most likely to start conversations with me, but they are the ones I see less often because of my work schedule.
The other day I worked on a grant at home and then headed to work around 2, so the kids were walking home from school. I walked a bit with a young girl who was the ring leader of my gang from a few weeks back, the one who asked me with all seriousness, “how much money is enough?”  She was also the one who told the younger kids not to call me “lekoga” so I like her.  She had her brother and two cousins in tow and we walked along for about 15 minutes.
She seemed determined in that time to teach me as many Setswana words as she possibly could, averaging I think somewhere between 5 and 1000 words a minute. It was hard for me to tell and impossible for me to keep up, obviously. She would say a word, tell me what it meant and have me repeat it.  Then she’d correct me and say it again. Then we would go on to the next word and I would promptly forget the proceeding one.
She told me the words for small and large rocks or hills, the word for grass, words for three or four different kinds of fencing (which all looked pretty much the same to me), words for various plants along the way. It reminded me of when I lived in Germany as a teenager and my German mother walked me through her immense garden, telling me the words of various plants and trees and asking me what the English words were. She would look at me oddly when I couldn’t name every plant in English. I didn’t think I looked like a botanist (whatever that would look like) and clearly she felt our US school system was useless. For years after that I would only know the German names of plants, but now I am back to not remembering them in English or German.  This kid felt I should know the English words for all these different fence parts and types. I failed her too.   We talked about the fire on Otse Hill the night before and she gave me the words for lightning and thunder. In one ear, out the other, I am afraid. Without writing things down, I haven’t a chance.
I am happy to say that any words she told me that I already knew I recognized and could properly repeat, showing that in just under 7 months I have managed to actually learn a few things, but not enough to impress anyone her age. The rest of what she taught me is a big fat blur.
We came to Erto’s house and I stopped to wave at him and his family.  He now smiles at me, even from afar and does this little half wave, half beckoning motion with his cute little hand. I am sure he doesn’t know he is doing both – it is his cute signature wave- and it doesn’t really matter. He can wave and/or beckon to me all day long as far as I care.  I was able to tell my tutor that “ke ditsala tsa me” which means, “these are my friends.”  I think she was duly impressed. God, I hope we can raise the money needed for this sweet boy.
Speaking of money, as I continued along with my walking Berlitz of Botswana, my personal Rosetta Stone of Setswana, I was aware that these kids and the other ones who know me and see me every day don’t ask me for money anymore, though after this tutorial she should have demanded something for her effort.  But if her pay was based on my rate of retention, she would go broke.
Next time I will pull out the pen and paper and be a better student. I would also then have proof of how hard I worked on my way to work, in case I am ever audited.

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Be the Sheep

Whew, What a Week
I had company this week; a Peace Corps trainee currently in the middle of her training. This is their week to shadow other volunteers, and the person she was going to shadow couldn’t do it at the last minute so I volunteered to help out. She is a retired psychologist and will be working with youth here as a Life Skills volunteer. They only have about a 7 week training – we had 9.5, and she was four weeks into it.
We had a good time, but I am sure she was glad to get back to training where she was within close walking distance of the training center and wasn’t quite so busy. We walked the distance to work and more each day, and a couple of days we started at 7:30 and went to 6:30. I had to leave her on her own one morning while I took Cathrine and Erto to get their passports, and she went the long way, and then got lost so that didn’t help much either, I am sure. (Oh, what we would pay for a street sign.)
It was just the way the week turned out and the things I had to do, although generally I am pretty busy and wasn’t just showing off.  And then there were the things I didn’t know I had to do that my supervisor had me do at the last minute. These things happen.
She ran 2 focus groups, I helped with one of them. We attended a grant proposal training put on in our village by NACA (National AIDS Coordinating Agency, or something), which we crashed at the last minute. They really want us to apply for a grant to get services to people with disabilities. The morning session, which went to 1, started late and covered in the time what should have been covered in 1 hour. So, while we got to listen to an excellent discussion about the factors impacting HIV/AIDS in Botswana from the perspective of the experts who live here, we didn’t get to hear squat about the actual grant application or how to go about applying. We had to leave to get to the focus group, but of course stayed and had lunch first.
After the focus group, we hopped on over to the Otse Disability Support Group meeting at 5 and she got to see what that was like. Then we got home around 6:30 or 6:45 and dealt with my erratic electrical system. I think we cooked and ate most of our meals by candlelight and waited around for there to be enough voltage to run the geyser long enough for hot water.
Thursday we went to Mogobane where I facilitated a training for that support group, then we hopped back to Otse for lunch (I had three scoops of ice cream and a ginger ale for lunch. Mom, you would be proud) and then back on a bus to Ramotswa to attend the Lifeline group that my co-PCV Tom runs on a weekly basis. The kids were getting ready to cast the various roles for the movie they will be making, so every got to practice different parts to much laughter and silly antics. After that, we spent a short time with Tom and his wife Debbie, who is visiting from the states but leaving next Friday, and then we had to leave to catch a bus  - I am sorry I have to interrupt this to say that it is way too hot for me to be cooking a bean and rice stew. Anyway, we didn’t quite manage to get back here by dark, but we did our best and had no mishaps.
Friday was another visit from our EU grant pals. Enough said. The trainee finished up some of her reports and headed out around 1 p.m. Wish I could have headed out around 1.  But I toughed it out, got thing the EU staff person needed, my desk not quite cleared but at least organized for next week’s assault, and blogs posted.
I then went over to pick some mulberries to bring home for my cereal in the a.m.  There was a nice Friday afternoon atmosphere going on with the staff. Many of the trainees had left for the weekend and people were hanging out at the pottery shop near where I was picking the berries. They had big HUGE bags (did I say they were HUGE?) of chard that they were selling for 6 PULA (about a buck). I wanted some SO bad, but not a bag that big. We joked that I wouldn’t have any left by the time I got home because I would be handing it out to everyone I passed, just to lessen my load. 
When I returned from picking the berries, one of my staff friends had left for me a small, much more reasonably sized bag, which she said she couldn’t charge me for because it was less than a kilo. Way cool.  I offered my berries around to those who were there. Most of the guys politely just took a couple. I realized that they worked within 20 feet of the tree and had plenty of chances to fill themselves. But my co-worker who is in an electric wheelchair, due to an accident of some sort quite a few years ago, was very pleased to have the chance to have these lovely berries offered to him, and I made sure he took his fill.
While berry picking, I had a phone call with the woman who is going to help transport Erto and Cathrine back and forth from here to Johannesburg to get treatment. We have been able to find a doctor in Jo’burg who will help, which means they can make the trip back and forth in one day and don’t have to go all the way to Cape Town or be away from their home and her other kids for 6 or 8 weeks. This woman had a child with the same situation and she is eager to help but also to maybe use this opportunity to bring awareness to the problem and try to get more physicians involved in Botswana in providing this important, non-surgical alternative for clubfoot. She is coming this weekend to meet me, Cathrine and Erto and it may be we have raised enough money already to get them to their first appointment and treatment, though not enough for the entire series.
Having someone who has been through it, who is Motswana, and willing to help Cathrine through this is SO critical to success.  I stopped by and saw Cathrine on the way home to let her know we had company coming and the good news. She was pleased that she wouldn’t have to be gone for so long, but seemed like a two week “vacation” from her life here would have been a nice thing.  I am sure the idea of going away, with just one of her three kids, receiving money for food and having nice accommodation sounded nice, even if potentially difficult.
My walk home proceeded nicely after that. I spoke to quite a few people, starting to practice my little bit of Setswana more and more. I spoke to a group of kids, a woman who insisted on all the greetings then told me I needed to teach her English, an older fellow in the grocery store who said he would be my tutor, my neighbor at the bottle shop who speaks no English, and all the various random people I say “dumela” to.  I ignored the young child who yelled “lekgoa” at me, because she was with adults and they know better.
I saw one of my teenage friends and we reconfirmed our meeting tomorrow. A few people, at a few different places along the way, said they would come see me “kamoso” (tomorrow). Maybe they will, maybe they won’t, but it is a sign of increasing integration, so I was feeling good.
I even stopped to talk to the only two sheep in the village, who I have never seen before, but as they appeared today on my regular route home, I couldn’t just ignore them. At first I thought they were very fat goats, but they were covered in sheep’s clothing, so I was not fooled. “Where have you been all this time?” we mutually queried. None of us really had a good answer for the others, so I moved on.
And that got me to thinking how much I enjoy these walks home, with just my random thoughts, a few conversations, and generally low level but nice interactions.  I loved having my trainee guest, but I realized today that when I am expected to talk so much, I don’t get my time to just think.  And this realization set a whole set of other realizations into motion. (Like this distracting realisation– I am starting to type “s” where “z” belongs…) First, I think I am pretty good at thinking on my feet – responding to situations as they come and not needing a lot of time to think about an answer because I am thinking as I am speaking, generally. Some of my friends can attest to the fact that they also would appreciate if I sometimes WOULD think before I spoke and not at the same time I spoke. Or even prefer that I think quietly and then still not speak at all.
This week made me realize that even though I can do all this, when I am constantly being asked to speak, I start to feel like I don’t have room to think anymore. When I am on my toes, or someone is on my toes, I am way too much in my head, and not in my heart.  I want to escape to silence and emptiness. So my new motto when this happens is, “Be the sheep.” Not the goat – they really are too busy. And being the "sheep" has the added bonus of perhaps being more than one, or just one, depending on your mood.

Friday, October 14, 2011

Who is this St. Michael guy Anyway?


So Friday afternoon, my landlord, who is also the assist project coordinator (her husband, my supervisor is the project coordinator. Don’t ask.) told me that the school for  7 – 13 year olds at Camphill (Rankoromane) was putting on a show where they were going to reenact St. Michael’s killing of a dragon. Well, no, they won’t kill a real dragon, she assured me.  Do I look that gullible?

So members of Motse wa Badiri and Legodimo (the school for 14-17 year olds) wandered over there and sat ourselves down to wait for things to occur. All the kids from Rankoromane were already seated  on one side of the compound, the Legodimo kids sat together and the MwB people sat on the remaining benches, moving them every which way so we could sit in whatever shade was left for us.

The teachers led the youngsters in various welcoming songs, a prayer and then told the story of St. Michael, which still is a mystery to me.  There was a big bonfire waiting to be lit in the center of the compound. At some point some of the youth from Rankoromane and Legodimo went off and brought back a huge paper stuff rendering of a dragon that looked a lot like a giant alligator or lizard. It was painted nicely and had scaly looking things.  They carried through the crowd while the kids sang a song. We were all supposed to touch it, so we did.   Then they placed it on the top of the awaiting haystack styled pile of big branches.  Part of the story that I didn’t understand had a place in it where we were all supposed to yell “FIRE” (in English) and point at the pile. This got a lot of laughs from my group of young women and was repeated throughout the rest of the event and random moments, followed by giggles.

A small fellow with the longest tie in Botswana came to douse the pile with gasoline. The tie style here is to wear them short, halfway up the dress shirt. His looked extra odd because of this, but in reality it was probably just three inches longer than how we wear them at home. He is clearly a trend setter.  But still that tie, leaning into a soon to be lit bonfire by the tie’s wearer, was a bit…uh….But still he managed it and the tie remained unscathed.

The wind is blowing the ashes, some big flakes, in our direction. My friends kept trying to brush them off me, but I told them not to worry. We sat ducking the smoke and ash until the youngest got up with their teachers and danced once around the fire, singing a song, followed by the Legodimo contingent and lastly by Motse wa Badiri.  

Then we sat some more and they started bringing out the food. Every event seems to have food, which is I am sure why a bunch of our group went over.  They fed the kids first, then the youth from Legodimo, then those of us from Motse.  It was a potentially perfect chili dog, except the bun wasn’t cut open, the beans weren’t spicy and the mustard and onions and dogs were all just piled on the plate. So really, it was just a meal.  Knowing I didn’t have much at home to cook, or feel like cooking what I had, I went for it.  Not sure how many years those two small dogs have taken off my life, but what the heck. It’s quality of life, right, not quantity?  And this little gathering was quality, taken as a whole and minus the indigestion.

The next week, I got to walk up to various trainees, point at them and yell "FIRE" and get to see them laugh hysterically.  That made us all happy and we have St. Michael and a dragon who didn't know he could just torch the saint to thank for that!

After Independence

We had our first rain since June the day after Independence Day.  I had been really tired from all the laundering, and my stomach didn’t feel right from all the meat I ate, so I spent the day relaxing and doing nothing of consequence. My teen age friends came over for awhile, and one of them proceeded to take a nap.  Sitting with the other girl and watching this nap-taker made me very sleepy, so when they left I decided to try a nap of my own. I woke up at around 7 pm with my light on and decided I wasn’t going to do anything but continue my nap, so I turned off the light and slept for another 12 hours, off and on, because of the terrific thunderstorm.
Both I and the world outside woke refreshed. The dusty dirt paths and roads were no longer dusty, but not muddy either. I walked all the way to the bus stop and my shoes still looked black.  I was headed to the Boatle Jazz Garden to meet Tom and his wife Debbie, visiting from the States, to see the Women of Jazz perform.  I had met one of the Women at a fundraiser at Tom’s church and wanted to see they perform. They do fundraisers for nonprofits and I am trying to get one of my many projects on their short list for next year.
Being a Sunday afternoon on a holiday weekend that included a pay day on Friday, the bus was packed with people returning home from either a trip home or a shopping excursion.  I barely got a place on the bus, and we passed stops with people waiting because we were now at standing room capacity.  I was lucky enough to have a precarious perch to sit on, next to an open window, where I could peer directly out the huge plate glass windshield. At least I didn’t have to stand the whole way.  So as we are driving along and I can see everything the driver can see, I started thinking about the things I do here that I would never do at home, mostly because no one would allow it.  Like all of us standing in the stairwell or perched on the handle rail of the stairwell of this bus. For a second or so I try to develop my mitigation plan for a possible crash. Given that the road is fairly straight and you can see most things coming, I figured I would quickly turn away from the window and throw myself onto the floor, holding on tight to the hand rail if I saw the driver about to do anything stupid.  Of course, I would look pretty stupid if I misinterpreted anything.  The other major cause of accidents is those animals flinging themselves in front of vehicles at the last minute. In that case, I wouldn’t see it coming and we were much bigger than it, so the key was for the driver to just run it over and not try to avoid it.
All these thoughts went out the window as we drove by the garbage dump and the smells came charging in.  So, now I know what a garbage dump smells like after four months of dryness followed by a nice rainstorm. God Almighty. Why did they put this dump right along this highway?  Will it smell this bad all summer or just after every rain? Or is it just after the first rain and then for how long?  I am still trying to maintain my safety and security plan for a bus crash while having these thoughts. I hadn’t figured into any of my scenarios the driver passing out from garbage fumes, so I watched him anxiously for any signs that I would have to put my plan into motion.
But none too soon, we had passed the stench and people who had passed out were regaining consciousness (seriously though, no one that I could see actually passed out).  I arrived at the Jazz Garden promptly at 2, when it was to begin. Of course on my way past the stench it had occurred to me that I was getting there way too early and that things wouldn’t start properly for a couple of hours at least, but Tom, Debbie and I would have time to chat before the music, so it was cool.  Plus, I had to head back with a bus before it got too dark, which would mean I would have to leave by 6:30 at the latest.
I found the Women of Jazz, including the one I met Nnunu, only because they were the only three women standing around looking like they had something to do. She looked totally different without her big wig, formal dress and high heels. They arrived around 5. I said hi and told them I had to leave around 6 so I was hoping to get to hear them before then. Nnunu said, “well then let’s get started!”  Unfortunately what that meant was their back up musicians needed to set up their equipment and do a sound check, and they had to go change their clothes, so things started at 5:45 which was probably 15 minutes early.  I got to hear three songs before I headed out to the bus stop. They were awesome though.
On my way to the bus stop a drunk adult male yelled “lekoga” at me.  Well, Doofus Butt, I don’t respond to that and certainly not from an adult and certainly not a drunk one so I walked with strong, firm strides towards the bus stop. At some point it occurred to me that I was headed to the bus stop that would take me to Gabs, not the one that would take me back to Otse, so I had to double back, cross the street and run to catch the bus that was just coming.  At least Doofus Butt was nowhere to be seen.
When I got off the bus, I saw ahead of me on the roadway into town a bunch of dark figures (it was dusk now) with glowing plastic bags full of groceries. Finally, I have seen people shop and carry their loads home on the bus!  These people had just gotten off the bus from the opposite direction. I looked back at my bus and saw the multitude unloading their own glowing plastic bags full of groceries.  I walked up to join the group ahead of me and took one strap of a duffle bag that the young lady was especially struggling with and helped her carry that and one of her friend’s plastic bags to Moeding College, where they go to boarding school. They are fed at the school, but they say the food isn’t that good. What did you buy? I asked.  Packages of Top Ramen like noodles, among other things. These were one of my favorite quick and easy foods when I was their age.  Nice to know some things may be universal and unchanging with the passage of time.  I wished I had one of them there packages myself that night.

I Still Got Moves

I went with one of my Rotarian Club members to the home of another one as a part “Rotary Social,” part (okay MOSTLY) birthday party for said Rotarian’s ten year old daughter. We arrived to find for one that I was overdressed. But more importantly, there were at least 30 kids squealing, screaming, laughing (or whatever sound they had each personally chosen) in delight inside of a big bouncy castle contraption on the front lawn.  There were two sections to this thing, the back was the castle part, and the front had a slide into a small pool of water. So some kids were in swimsuits getting totally wet and others were fully clothed in the castle portion bouncing and laughing and getting only slightly less wet.
The adults were sitting around talking, but there were much fewer of us. In addition to family relations and friend of the host, a  total 5 of our club members had made it out to the event, which is pretty good since our club only has 14 members and a few of these are on indeterminate leave because of governmental transfers to jobs out of the area.  There was a lot of sitting around doing nothing, at least for me, because I can’t hold much of a conversation and my co-Otse member who brought me wanted to mingle. He is 63, single and hoping someday to find love again, so he had to be on his toes. I was trying to determine whether it was socially acceptable to steal a beer at a BYOB party and decided against it.
Eventually the food arrived, the cakes were unveiled, and then we waited some more before they started to serve the food.  It was actually a party for three children in this extended family who had had birthdays in the last 3 months – my host’s ten year old, her nine year old cousin and their 15 year old cousin. They each had a half sheet cake. Two of them had pictures of the kids expertly recreated on them, almost too pretty to eat. 
Did I mention that this particular host was definitely upper class? He house was ginormous but local standards. He told me later there were five people living there; he, his daughter, his sister’s daughter and small child and his male cousin who had just started to live there.  Just prior, it had been he, his daughter and a maid.  I said, “Well, I guess there isn’t room for the maid anymore” to which I received an emphatic, “Oh yes, there still is.”  He wife passed away two years ago and he has a good and responsible job so someone is needed to be there to take care of the household.
This was the second “party” I had been to in a week’s time where the children were fed first, which I think is pretty swell. The other was an event at Camphill put on by the school portion that has kids 7 to 14 (more on that somewhere else).  We don’t stand in line to get our food, which is also swell. Instead, the young women dish up the plates and take them to the waitees.  After we ate, we waited some more and they moved the gifts and cake front and center so they could be opened and the kids could stare at the cakes some more.
I hadn’t realized the nature of the party and the socio-economic class I was dealing with, but hadn’t wanted to show up empty handed. Unfortunately I couldn’t go shop for anything so I scrambled to find something suitable in my supplies.  I needn’t have bothered, Tendandi received so many really nice gifts and mine was kind of a freak occurrence that made little sense to anyone. I sat anxiously as they opened each gift, one by one. Because there were three birthday girls they had to identify who each gift was for.  I hadn’t know there would be three, so I didn’t put a card on mine and thus had to identify out loud that it was from me. I was more embarrassed than I needed to be. Although hoops and cheers went up for really awesome gifts, all gifts received a polite round of applause no matter what and I always had the out of being a dump foreigner.  So what was my gift? A nifty blue pencil pouch with pencils, highlighter pen, permanent marker pen, sticky notes, a glue stick and a deck of cards.  A practical and fun gift, right?  Yeah, but she also received a huge prepackaged set of similar items. Except for the cards. Oh well, I got over it quickly enough when they started serving the cake.
After the cake, there was more sitting around. The kids went back to the jumpy castle thing. Some decided to pour wash powder into the “pool” to get bubbles, which of course didn’t work the way they planned but their clothes at least got cleaner.  At times it looked like the whole thing would tip over from the numbers of kids inside.  At one point our host, a quiet and kind man in his late 50s or early 60s, went inside and started jumping around too.  More squeals and laughter from the kids.  I captured a couple of pictures of him trying to extricate himself from the mayhem and clearly he had a good time.
With my co-Otse member off to get some wine for us to drink, I sat again with nothing to do or say.  So I decided to pick up the garbage that people had simply put down under their seats on the lawn and never thought about again. I did this almost entirely by myself. Towards the end a few people came and added their stuff to my bag or picked up things near them and added to the bag. The sister-in-law of my host thanked me for doing it.  At least now the yard was clean and there would be less to do later.
Then they brought snack bags out for the kids, the adults started drinking and the yard was covered again.  By now I had other things to attend to because some of the kids were trying to get mulberries off the tree but the branches were really too high for most of them. So I started picking berries for the smaller kids until it got too dark for me to differentiate between a ripe and nonripe berry.
With darkness, a distinct change ran through the crowd. The women moved their chairs over to the “dance driveway” and the men clustered their chairs a bit further away on the lawn where they could watch.  Kids were dancing, some of the young ones gyrating and moving in amazing ways, being the most excellent mimics of adults. Although none of the adults there could do that anymore, so maybe they really had learned it from their teenage siblings and cousins. Anyway, there were a couple small kids – maybe 3 or 4 in age max – who danced like pros and their moves would generally be considered very sexually provocative if done by an adult, but they didn’t know it yet. They were just having fun.
The teen age girls were dancing with a couple of the middle aged women, so I joined in and they started trying to show me some of the generally acceptable dance moves.  We laughed a lot and I know some of them were laughing at me, but mostly not.  I asked one if I was doing it so poorly that they were laughing. She said it was more that they had never had a white person dance with them and try to learn the moves and that generally, I was doing okay.
After the young’un left, it was up to us older women to keep the dancing going, which we did as best we could. There was one woman there who was far and away the most beautiful and gifted in the movements. She had the eyes of men and woman alike on her as she danced. For awhile we danced with her and then, by some unspoken sign, all the women left her to dance alone, which she did for about 10 or 15 minutes. Eyes were glued on her movements, which were not the extreme gyrations of the young children, but very sensuous. My friend seeking companionship had brought his chair closer to the dance floor so he could have a better view. He later asked our host her story and our host replied that she was a cousin of some sort, didn’t work and was “looking for a sponsor,” which is I guess an interesting way of putting it.
At some point, she left and we reclaimed the dance floor. Another woman took it upon herself to try to teach me some of the more age appropriate moves and we had fun dancing. She was kind of drunk by then and sometimes would put on really sad faces.  It became clear to me as she and I danced at one point that some of the dance moves and posturing are truly competitive and so there was a give and take back and forth where she would do something and I was to do something back – either copy her or add a little extra to it.  Apparently I was doing it right because the women sitting there were laughing and clapping and she was acting sad and put out, but then would laugh too.
I had had this same brief interchange earlier with one of the teenage girls on the dance floor but hadn’t understood it clearly and thought she was just making fun of me. Apparently we were competing. Probably for one of the antisocial men sitting off in the dark in their huddle.
Occasionally a young man would come over and do some wild dance move and then run off into the darkness again. Only two young men sustained more than a 10 minute dance period, but they were dancing like the possessed so I get how that isn’t possible to keep up for long. My co-Otse Rotarian did the most dancing, but the women definitely laughed at him, so he decided to just sit and watch. My host would come out periodically and dance for a few minutes and at one point I saw him really bust a move.  He joked later that for about 15 seconds he could dance awesomely, but much longer than that any he would just show his age.  It should be about quality, not quantity though, right?
So now, a party that I initially felt separate from had totally embraced me and I felt part of the group. My host had introduced me to many of his guests, mostly a family relation of some sort and they for the most part were friendly and welcoming.  His deceased wife’s sister and her husband were responsible for making the best seswaa I have had since I have been here. Seswaa is meat that is cooked, pounded with a heavy object until it is soft and kind of stringy, like pulled pork or something. Apparently the secret is to make it with goat meat, not beef, as was explained to me after I had tried some. Then I had to explain to a shocked young man that American’s don’t eat a lot of goat meat generally, although there are certainly pockets of people who must know the secret of goat meat but aren’t sharing it widely. Anyway, these friendly people told me they would make it for me when I decided to have a party at my house, because everyone knows a party without seswaa isn’t a real party.  I tried to think of what comparable food item makes a party a party in America, but I couldn’t.
But the highlight of the evening had to be when I went into the kitchen where my host’s niece and her daughter were.  The daughter was around 2 years and she was fussing and crying.  Usually when kids are in this state I only make it worse, especially with kids here who may not exactly know what to think of this very pale person staring down at them.  But I started a game of peek a boo with her, adding “eh, eh, eh?” with it for the sound effects. She looked at me and actually stopped crying and started to return my “eh, eh, ehs?”  Then it was time to move in to a high five, which she eventually got. Whatever it was she was crying about was temporarily forgotten. Next time I see here I will teach her to blow kisses and wink.  This is definitely my favorite age group I am discovering: the more non-verbal the better.
Did I mention how sore I am this morning? Oh but to dance again was well worth it!

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Sorry about that

Sorry for the slam of posts. Email is sporadic, my schedule has got me going when email is coming, and coming when email is gone, so hopefully this isn't too much at once.  I realize I haven't given much overview of the "official" community and work, so I am going to slowly throw parts of my community assessment at you, for your reading, ehem, pleasure, if that is the proper word.  Unless something better happens on the way home tonight!

Cooking and Other Things in the Kitchen

Brown rice takes too long to cook. So I decided to eat my dessert first. The plus side to this is that after I eat dinner I can eat another dessert if I so choose.  The cats are fat and happy so won’t tell. In fact, if they got even 1/3 of the exercise I did, I would allow them even more treats then they get. I am down to my post breast-cancer, pre-hysterectomy wait, which is nice because it requires me to schlepp less sweaty body around in the heat.  And if I had that bikini I bought in Rio back in 2007, I still wouldn’t wear it, but I COULD, if I wanted to, and that’s what matters.
Last night I made a nice salad and tried my hand at flour tortillas again.  I was too lazy to really roll them out; I thought I could just kind of flatten them on a plate and shape them with my hands.  Not true, as it turned out, but the cool thing is if you are making them for bread and not to actually wrap something in, they still turn out fine. 
While the dough was resting, I decided to try another no bake cookies recipe from our Peace Corps cookbook. Have I mentioned that I have no oven? I have a gas cooking range, but no oven. I decided that in the interest of not baking myself every bread, cake and cookie recipe in this book, I would just survive without one. But you can make a lot of bread type and dessert type things without a stove, I have discovered. 
So this time it was peanut butter fudge. Peanut butter, corn syrup (I used some honey instead), warm water, milk powder, confectioner’s sugar. I added some cocoa cause the word “fudge” in my mind equates with chocolate. So do the words “boredom,”  “anxiety,” “loneliness,”  “my electricity is out again,” “I don’t feel like doing my work,” etc., etc.  All words, like all roads, lead to chocolate. Thanks Mom.
I thought for about 2 seconds about making a ½ recipe. I did that with the tortillas so I would only have to eat six of them instead of 12. But the fudge recipe said serves 4 to 6 so I wasn’t sure how many fudge balls that would actually make.  12, it turns out, which means 2 to 3 balls per person by their reckoning .  Get real. And they were mighty nice. The next morning when I looked in the fridge, I was surprised to discover I had only eaten 4 of them. So I guess the recipe really serves 3.  I could have sworn I ate more. But heh, far out, breakfast!
The other thing I discovered when I woke up was what I have now semi-affectionately dubbed “Lazy Butt Ants.” (LBA)  They were at the water trough that is my sink with the unwashed tortilla frying pan in it.  They aren’t really the lazy butts, I was.  The two times I have gone to bed without doing all my dishes completely, leaving water in something (it’s the famous Kraft Family Overnight Soak, which my brothers practiced with great proficiency when we were young. They were supposed to come back and clean it in the morning, but by then it was someone else’s turn to clean the kitchen, and they became totally oblivious to their forgetfulness) , I have woken to these Lazy Butt Ants.  My, that was a great run on of a sentence. My inner editor notices, but cares not. I even just noticed how I could fix it. Still don’t care.
Anyway, ants in the sink, under the dish rack, crawling up the walls to the ledge near the ceiling which as far as I can tell is just a place for bugs to hide, but serves no structural or even esthetic purpose. It is the launching pad from which bugs and other creatures introduce themselves into my kitchen; sometimes falling to their deaths while I am gone and leaving carcasses that I am left to ponder; other times just peeking out at me, like the salamander tonight; or literally hanging out, like the long-legged spiders that I leave alone as long as they hang high.
Pudi saw the salamander tonight, but again, even her jump can’t do the 10 feet distance.  I think the salamander also saw Pudi. It certainly saw me and ran right back into the crack in the corner that appears to be designed specifically for his/her quick entrances and exits.  So now, I ask, why don’t lizards eat ants, especially Lazy Butt Ants?  My home would be the perfect little ecosystem if it were so, but apparently he/she is blowing them off.  And as I sit once again readying myself for another candlelight dinner, I have discovered that these LBAs, at least the ones I haven’t killed, appear to be able to fly. A couple have already landed on my computer screen. Lovely.
Tomorrow is Independence Day here in Botswana – the country is 45 years old. I may have to put out some ant poison.  We are never totally free, no matter what they say, as long as LBAs can fly.

Another Day in Paradise

Don’t laugh or judge me, but I was a judge at a “Mma Bontle” contest for disabled women today.  This is a beauty contest that was put on by one of the disability groups to raise money. Having not seen one yet, I agreed to go to support the effort and they made me a judge. Along with the mother of one of the contestants and her best friend. Guess who won?  And no one seemed to care, so I don’t either. It was an interesting event.  They strutted their stuff in three different outfits, casual, slightly less casual and then semi-formal.
There were only three of them, all from the local town, because the support groups from the other two towns had transportation problems coupled with it being the day before the Independence Day holiday and the end of the month.  At month end people go to the post office to get their Social Security or pay check for when they have been working on various government welfare to work type programs. Very few people have street addresses anyway, so mail gets delivered to your post office box or if you don’t have one, you go to the post office to get your check.
Apparently people in Mogobane have to go to the Otse post office, so this created quite a crowd of people sitting at the Mogobane Community center this morning waiting for transport to come and take them to Otse. When I arrived there around 8:30 for our regularly weekly meeting,  I was told by the vice chair that there probably won’t be one. I guess he was nice enough to come all the way there to tell me this. The chair was preparing for a wedding in his family, and everyone else was either on their way to Otse or some other unknown place, given that it was the day before a major holiday.  The vice chair kindly rounded up some of the disabled youth waiting for the bus to Otse so we could have a meeting, except none of them were officially on the committee, although they were general members. (I have a workshop planned in a couple of weeks to run through their constitution with them so they understand the contents.)  We chatted a bit about a few projects “unofficially” and they told me they would probably not have anyone going to the Mma Bontle in Tuang, due to all the other things going on.
Okay, so did someone tell Tuang, or are they still expecting you?  And I will have to let the chair know that he should let ME know when I don’t have to make the trek to Mogobane because time is Pula, right? 
I made my way over to the Mogobane Clinic to see the medical system in action (a topic for some other time, okay?) No really, just to track down a member who works there. She snagged us a ride with the ambulance guy – her to the office across town (which when we got to was locked tight with a chain and lock on the gate – have fun with that) and me to the bus stop. 
He had a third woman wedged in there tight with us who had a cast on her foot.  He said she jumped out of a tree. Then he said she and he used to be married. So I said, “Did you jump or did he push you?” He and I laughed.  She remained straight-faced. She actually was a cadet at the nearby Police Academy and may or may not have jumped out of a tree, but he wasn’t her ex-husband and most likely didn’t push her. I asked her if they would make her do pushups and such during her convalescence so she didn’t get all flappy and weak. She tried to remain all serious and cadet-like, but he and I were cracking the jokes back and forth to the point where she finally cracked and gave the smallest of smiles.  Hah, get tough, police cadet!
He mentioned that he worked with the mentally ill – it was his specialty – and since we were getting along so well I maybe should have taken that personally, but at the moment it went right over my head.  Anyway, he can get me in to visit the big psychiatric hospital in Lobatse, and as long as he can get me back out again, I may very well go for a tour.
So now it is 10 a.m. and I am not due in Tuang til 12:30, although I know I don’t need to be there til maybe 2:30 when the Mma Bontle contest is purported to be starting. I am only 15 minutes by bus to my bus stop in Otse so I decide to go home for a couple hours and head to Tuang to get there by 1:30. I figure, I am on a roll with transport today, let’s go home and get some work done and get out of the heat. Have some chocolate and lunch. Well, about an hour later, I am finally home.  Buses and hitches are an art not a science and it is the day before Independence Day with people going hither and yon looking for their pay checks, so I guess an hour to get  15 minutes worth of distance (if that makes any sense)  is doing okay.
Later, on the way to Tuang I got a nice hitch from a guy from South Africa, on his way through Botswana to Namibia looking for whatever he can do to make money. He was being a bit vague so I didn’t push it, but the bunch of us had a nice trip talking about this and that. I told them when I go on vacation in Botswana I plan to rent a car and spend the whole time driving up and down the highways offering lifts to Batswana.  The white people traveling through here NEVER give lifts to anyone and I am sure there are many theories about the reasons for this.
We decided that if I pulled over at a bus stop where people were hitching, I would probably have to get out of the car, walk over to them and say something to them in Setswana like, “doofus, get in the car, I am giving you a ride, and I probably won’t even charge you because people here have been so nice to me with lifts and I want to blow your preconceptions of white drivers.”  Or something shorter and probably omitting the Setswana equivalent for “doofus” because I don’t know that word. (Jeez, or any of the others in the sentence, but whatever.)
At the Tuang combi stop, I get into the appropriate combi to take me to the location of the Mma Montle. The driver was told by the snack stand guy where I was going and he agreed he knew where that was.  While waiting I bought myself an orange and also gave the driver one. He was speaking a mixed up jumble of English and Setswana. Not just that I couldn’t understand it. That’s a given. It was more like he was confused, or drunk or both.  Oh well, I have the seatbelt on and really he wasn’t that bad. Maybe just a bit forgetful, because I had to remind him where I was going and when we got close to it, he had to ask the other people in the combi if where he was taking me was in fact where I wanted to be.  It’s a school for crying out loud, right on your combi route that you drive by a zillion times a day!  Have you not noticed kids here from time to time?  Now I was very glad I was getting out and that he had gotten me there safely. I think he needs that vitamin C in the orange oh so badly.
When I arrived, I saw the Otse Support Group contingent there, all donning their  visibility t-shirts, courtesy of the European Union. I had a Tuang SG t-shirt on, in solidarity with the event planners. The Otse folks apparently had been there since around 12:30!  They knew it started at 2:30 and that things never start on time?????!. And, they had no Otse contestants with them – it was just 4 committee members and the DJ. ?????!  So, I am paying transport from our grant money to get contestants to this event and we have 5 supporters but not supportees.  Apparently it was a problem for the families of the girls to get the clothing they needed to have to compete respectably in such an event. I was to see later how true this was.
So we sat, and sat.  Around 2:30 some folks from Tuang come and start readying the room. The Chair still isn’t there and apparently she was seen heading in the opposite direction at around 2. Probably shopping for prizes for the girls.  At 3:30 she arrives. Now we are waiting for Mogobane contestants which I assure her are not coming. Finally, at 4 we get the party started with the three contestants we have. 
Between wardrobe changes, the basadi bogole (old ladies – like in their 40s plus!) get up and do a bit of reasonable dancing and Florence the Tuang Chair, drags me up to join them.  Well, I haven’t done any public dancing since I have been here, which is a sad thing, indeed .  I knew it wouldn’t matter what I did – everyone would be watching me as the white mosadi mogole  - so I enjoyed myself and added some appropriate hip gyrations at the end. I want to say it was to massive applause and acclaim, but there were only about 20 people in the room; at least half of whom were under 15 years old, so I am sure they were simply horrified, just as the youth is when I dance like that at home.
It was a fun time.  Afterwards, the Otse group members sat with the Tuang group members and encouraged them to start meeting more regularly. As far as I can tell, they had a good conversation and were providing each other with mutual support, understanding and affirmation.  While the event may not have raised the money they had hoped for, having Otse show up to support the event even without contestants was a real shot in the arm to the Tuang Chair, Florence, and the Secretary Frederick who have been trying to have meetings without the other members following through.  We set the next meeting for October 8 and we shall see who shows.  The lady whose daughter won the event better have her butt in a chair at that meeting. That’s all I am saying.
Tshepo, the treasurer for the Otse group who is 26 years old, disabled and employed at Camphill, accompanied me back to Otse. He lives near me and we had a good conversation about the event, what Otse can do to make sure their Mma Bontle is better, and what was said at the meeting we just left. He gave the welcoming remarks at the event and is a dynamic speaker. Florence and I thought he would be good to do this speech and encourage the group to rededicate their efforts. Plus, he is a good looking young man and you need that at a Beauty Contest.



Independence Day

Independence Day
I celebrated my first Botswana’s Independence Day here by doing laundry.  I wasn’t intentionally being my typical anti-nationalistic self. My Rotary club here is working on a project collecting clothing to give to poor and/or disabled people. One of our members – the one with the washing machine – thought it would be a good day for it.  He is from Austria originally, so I guess it wasn’t his Independence Day either. The physician in our club from Zambia joined us with his wife, along with a young woman from Botswana who needed the money we would be paying her more than she needed to celebrate her independence.
All the other members apparently had to celebrate, so it was just us.  The Doctor and his wife had to leave before lunch to track down a young male family member who went on an all-night binge and was unaccounted for. And then we were three.  What we hoped would just take a few hours turned into a 10 to 5 job, mostly because the washing machine was so small, but we had a nice lunch for it.
Afterwards, I headed home and as I walked slowly towards the village it seemed like all of a sudden, it was spring.  I was noticing all the trees in bloom, especially the big huge trees with purple flowers, of course. What was that tree?? I started to wonder if and hope that it was the same tree that had been dropping its leaves and big dead seed pods on my patio and walkways for the last 4 months. It would make it all worth it if that were true.  There were trees with orange blooms, yellow blooms, white blooms, all seemingly to have bloomed that very day, because I certainly would have seen them yesterday if they had been there, right?
Although I missed the big celebration at the Kgotla (which as far as I can tell was lots of speeches, dancing, more speeches and eventual food under a very hot sun), I stumbled upon more dancing in a general grocer’s parking lot on the way home.  There I ran in to my two young teen age friends and all their friends.  I also met an older woman who kept telling me, “This is our culture. You should take pictures.”
I pick and choose when I pull out my camera and looking around at the audience, time of day, and due to the fact that there were no other cameras around, I decided not to bring mine out either.  She introduced me to the priest who was there with one of the dancing/singing groups from Gabane, a town near Gaborone.  I kept asking people what the groups were actually singing, beyond “this is our culture,” and didn’t get much, until finally the older woman said that the one group had been singing about how they were the best choir around and all the other choirs were scared of them.  At about that time, the other choir was up again for their turn. Guess they weren’t all that scared.  Understanding now that it was primarily a choir pissing contest, and my feet really ached from being on them doing laundry all day, I made my way home, walking with one of my teen aged friends.
We came upon another celebration – this one was for a young woman’s 21st birthday.  It was just down the hill from my house, if you turn left at the shebeen, and they had a tent up with a DJ blasting dance music.  She ran into the yard and I walked slowly past.  An 8 or 9 year old kid was throwing stones at a 4 year old. The 4 year old ran up to me and grabbed my hand. I told the bigger kid “nyaa! No more lenstwe!” (rocks)  He smiled but stopped. The 4 year old didn’t let go of my hand, but used his other hand to feel my skin on my arm, rubbing and touching my freckles.  He was very serious.  A young girl joined us and I asked her what his name was. “Omogole.”  I asked her what it meant, because mogolo means old person, and I wondered if it was some derivative of that.  The child was certainly acting wiser than his years.  He ran to me, a stranger, but someone who would protect him. 
He was quietly examining my skin and when I ran my fingers over his forearm, just as he was doing to me, and said, “we are the same, it feels the same, just a different color,” he looked at me and nodded infinitesimally and wise-like. He couldn’t have understood the words, but it seemed like he understood what I was saying. He held my hand for a few minutes in silence as I talked to the other kids.  The bigger kid had gone off elsewhere and gradually Omogile felt safe to venture back towards the party.  And so he did.
I could have stopped at the party, walked in and introduced myself, and probably should have.  I keep forgetting that when people have parties here they don’t send out written invitations, people just go if they know the person involved.  This goes for weddings and funerals as well.  It makes it interesting to estimate how much food to make, because every party feeds people.
As I work to integrate, I realize that I sometimes hold myself back from doing so, and possibly for the wrong reasons. Part of me is constantly trying to weigh and balance the real vs. perceived dangers of interacting with others. I am pretty clear I am not going to go to the neighborhood shebeen and sit for an evening of drinking. Yet in the day time, this neighborhood shebeen has kids who live and play there, and they are my neighbors who I should be friendly with, right?
And there are the young men who belong to the local theater group who are active in HIV prevention work in their community and seem to be good kids, who I want to support. But when I run in to one of them near the choir dance off, and he is overly friendly and seems like he has been drinking, and wants “just five minutes” of my time, and I am tired and want to go home, I wonder how open and friendly I should be. I mean, I am certain that these guys all see me as an old lady and that they aren’t coming on to me. It is more my concern over their perception that I have money or special powers to get them whatever it is they need that makes me back off from them. I think the younger volunteers have different issues in terms of interactions with their communities and I wouldn’t trade my issues for theirs, but I am often wondering if people want to get to know me because they think I have money to give them, or because they just want to get to know me. So it makes me hesitant.
When there are these big groups of people having parties, who I don’t really know that well, I get a bit shy about just putting myself out there. Even though they all know me, at least as the “white lady who lives around here somewhere” I still feel like I would be just barging in.  Yet in this culture I may be in fact acting more rudely by not “barging in.”  But being sure to behave appropriately for a woman, and a woman my age, is critical. So are their women my age at these types of things or not?  I guess the only way to find out is to just barge in. Note to self: barge next time. Free myself from the tyranny of uncertainty. Or maybe not?

Some tidbits


Fashion Tips
So apparently teenage girls the world over, no matter what their financial, cultural, or educational circumstances, know fashion.  I was wearing my ex officio travel pants at home one day when my two teenage friends came over.  I opened the door and they burst out laughing at ME!  Well now.  I haven’t worn the pants here more than once or so, because they are baggy and make me feel like a balloon. So at least officially now I know they actually make me LOOK like a balloon too. Actually, what my friends said about them is that they are “Tourist pants. White people pants.”  So I guess it is a kind of backhanded compliment for them to be so surprised to see me in them, and not want me to wear them.

Men Over Flowers
I was sitting at my desk at work the other day. It sits in the corner of a larger room that is used for meetings. They used to kick me out of some personnel related meetings until they realized that I wouldn’t understand them if in Setswana.  My boss no longer kicks me out of the ones he has in English related to their organizational restructuring because he realizes I can actually help them with good ideas from time to time.
Anyway, so I was in my “office” and our HR person was orienting the new driver to various HR policies at the meeting table.  Another staff person had arranged some flowers for someone for a wedding and had brought them in to put in the fridge to keep cool and had put the larger arrangement on the table with the fan blowing on it.  One of the gardening supervisors was checking his email on a computer off to the side.
The guy shows up to pick up the flower arrangements, so the HR meeting stops and the woman who made the arrangements come in.  The guy starts complaining about the price of the flowers, saying he has this stuff in his yard and he could have done it himself.  You can tell he is kind of playing around, but at the same time I can tell from the staff’s face that she is feeling a bit insulted by him implying this was easy or done without skill. 
I look at her and the HR director, another woman, and I say, “men have no idea how much something like this costs or how hard it is to do” then I walk out to make copies in the other office.  I don’t want to stick my nose too far into this, but I didn’t like seeing her insulted.  They all continue a quite animated discussion in Setswana where I can tell he is arguing about the amount and they are telling him the flowers are beautiful and he couldn’t have done this himself. I come back and I guess he is claiming he doesn’t have enough money, but he goes out to make a phone call.  When he comes back he is still bitching and moaning. I get another shot in at him, “if you could have made it yourself, you would have. But you didn’t and now you need to pay for what you ordered,” and then leave the room again.  When I come back, he is out at his car but returns and has suddenly found the money he “didn’t” have to pay for the flowers.  He pays and leaves.
While he was out, I told them all that he probably phoned the bride or groom who told him just pay the price. He had probably hoped to be able to lower the price and keep the extra “savings” in his own pocket. I suggested to the staff person that in the future she tell the people exactly what it was going to cost in advance, and provide them with an invoice when they come and pick it up, so there is no room for this kind of “confusion” in the future.
The HR director tells me that while I was gone he asked them to go find me and ask me to lower the price, thinking I was the boss. This dismays me.  There are five  of us in the room with this guy, including a creative woman who made some beautiful flower arrangements and he decides it’s the white person who is in charge. Sure, I was the only one at a “desk” with a computer, but nothing anyone said to him or to me during the encounter indicated I was the boss. I only said 2 or 3 sentences the whole time while they were all exchanging a lot of words.  Sigh.

My first snuff encounter
So I am sitting at a support group meeting and we are waiting to get started. One of my legacy’s might eventually be to encourage them to start meetings on time once they have a quorum and not wait for every Tom, Dick and Harry to show up so they have more than a quorum and start 30 minutes into a 1 hour meeting. But we aren’t there yet. Instead we are waiting when the chair pulls out a little round metal container, takes out what looks like either tobacco or the dried coffee they drink here, and snorts it into her nose. She gives some to the woman next to her.  Five minutes later, they both blow their noses and done is done. I guess it is better than smelling cigarette smoke or seeing them spit chew out.  Nice.
My Neighbor
My neighbor is about 37 years old and mentally ill. He lives with his parents, sister and her child.  He comes and visits me occasionally, but is always asking for money or food, so I tend to ward off his visits. His mental illness mostly shows in his talk about god and religion. One time it expanded to god, religion, Saturn, Neptune and pointed ears, but that was an exception to the usual religious zeal.  He usually wants Pula so he can buy cigarettes. I never give him money and have occasionally given him apples. When my teenaged friends leave the house, he will sometimes ask them if I gave them any food or money. They have decided to mostly tell him no.
The week we were starting language week he was down near Jim’s house and saw me walk with Tom to Jim’s. I dashed off to meet Tonic our teacher and her ride at the main road. When we arrived back my neighbor was in Jim’s house, along with Tom and a white English friend of Jim’s who happened to be visiting.  My neighbor seemed more confused than normal and was really pushing for money. I felt responsible for having brought him to Jim’s accidentally, but felt Jim needed to set the boundaries in his home, and not me. Later that week he to my house while Tom and Jim were there with our teacher Tonic. He was aggressively panhandling at that point and I told him he could not come to my house and ask my guests for money. Tonic finally had to tell him it wasn’t cool and he left.
But he is really harmless and reminds me of some of our clients back at ADHS. Treat him with respect, set limits and things are good.  I wonder if the week he was so pushy he had stopped taking his medications or something.  The other day I met his father but didn’t know it was his father at first. I was walking past the shebeen where I met this older man coming from another direction. We greeted one another and continued on together until we were just in front of their home. He asked me if I knew the fellow and I said yes. He told me that he had a mental illness and I said “yes, I know, and he is a nice fellow.” Then he told me he was his son. I said, “Oh, I understand. Well, he is a nice fellow.”  My saying this seemed to make the gentleman happy and at ease.  I wasn’t lying either. He looked like he carried the particular heavy burden of a parent of a person with a mental illness.  His son is lucky to be living at home and in a village that pretty much lets him alone and doesn’t harass him.

The Cutest Snotty Noses
I was walking to work, yet again, when I heard the sound of young feet running in my direction, attached to the laughter of young kids. I stopped and turned and there stood 4 young kids, two of each sex, dressed smartly in their pre-school uniforms.  I said hello, and we continued walking together. One of the girls took my hand. Then, the youngest, another girl, took my other hand.  Now I felt as cute as they were!!  Then I noticed they were all sniffling, coughing and generally showing signs of having nice cute colds.  Smiling, sweet, happy, cute little faces of snot.  And me holding those cute little hands. We got to their school and I handed the oldest child a pack of Kleenex pocket tissues. She looked at them strangely and I tried to explain how they were used on their noses and that she needed to share them with her friends and that she should wipe her cute little nose now, now. They were sweet kids.

Kanye Wedding

I went back to visit my host family in Kanye a few weeks back. I had planned to go for my niece’s 13th birthday, but then I was sick. So my “mom” wanted me to go this particular weekend because there would be a wedding to attend.  She was hosting the family of the groom, who were from a different village.   
It felt like a true homecoming of sorts. My brother’s girlfriend and two young kids were there and back living at the house. They had moved out half way through my stay and I had missed them terribly.  Those babies were what had helped keep me mentally balanced and healthy during PST. Looking back I realize that when I lost them, I started to lose it. One of my sisters was home to help with things, and my niece of course was happy to see me and VERY happy when I told her I had brought the second two Twilight movies for her to see. My brother made a brief appearance was well, between readying the beer for the wedding reception and who knows what else.  I told him he had about 20 months to organize his wedding with his girlfriend so I could be here to attend.  That got some laughs.  But weddings are expensive here, as elsewhere, and while there is a hope and expectation that people get married, it is also acceptable that people don’t.
I also ran into the host sister of one of our volunteers who went home. I was able to reassure her that the volunteer was happy and okay and that her leaving had nothing whatsoever to do with her host family or the people of Botswana.  Our host families took very seriously their role of “raising us” and introducing us to Botswana so feel responsible for our successes or failures.  I assured this host sister that all was well and her family did a great job.
Most of the volunteers had probably already attended a wedding while we were in Kanye, but I hadn’t. In our training, we had already been told about how weddings and funerals went down here, so I knew what to expect. There are various aspects to weddings. One part is when members of the groom’s family go to speak to members of the bride’s family to negotiate the “bride price.”  I am not sure how much negotiation really occurs, because each village or area has a fairly set bride price, but the negotiation is a cultural tradition that must be observed. 
In Kanye, as in many other parts of the country, the bride price is 8 cows. Sometimes a goat or sheep is thrown in.  There is a town somewhere up north where the price is 12 cows. They don’t want their women to go to just anyone.  The cows are usually delivered to the customary wedding ceremony that occurs at the Kgotla in the woman’s village.  We went to one of these ceremonies during training.  Only married women are allowed into the Kgotla and have their heads covered and wear a blanket on their shoulders to indicate they are married.  The men sit on one side of the Kgotla, the women on the other, and when they don’t have enough chairs the women sit on the cement floor. 
The families are there and the bride and groom come before the Kgosi to answer a few questions to indicate they are taking this marriage seriously and are ready for it.  At the one we witnessed, they said they met at “church” which got a few laughs.  Also equally likely they met at a bar. These Kgotla weddings are on Thursdays and don’t have any particular celebration after them. Everyone, including the cows, leave, and then on Friday, they (minus the cows, I am pretty sure) usually go to get the civil paperwork.  Saturday is when the church wedding, if there is one, takes place and then the actual “reception.”
These receptions are held both in the groom’s village and the bride’s village, usually one weekend after another. I was there for the party at the bride’s village. I asked what happens if they are both from the same village. Apparently they still have two receptions. The reception usually takes place in a rented tent set up as close as possible to the family home. The family does all the cooking for the event unless they are hugely wealthy, which I haven’t seen yet.  And they don’t get RSVPs so they cook based on however they figure out how to estimate how many people will come.  Generally, it is only the one side of the wedding at one time who attend the reception, except for the members of the wedding party and the family members representing the family, who go to both parties. 
My mother, being part of the groom’s family, left the house around noon to attend to things. I hung out at the house with my sister, brother’s girlfriend, their two kids and my niece until about 3:30 before we headed to the reception. When we got there, most everyone was jammed in the tent, out of the sun, sitting and waiting to be fed.  Someone found us a small wooden bench to share and we sat in the middle of the dead end road watching people come and go.  When it was time to eat, mom came over and told us to bring the bench into the tent, where we tucked up just behind her at her table.
And they don’t skimp on the food. There are 2 to 3 kinds of meats, 4 or more of the traditional starches, and 3 to 4 different salads.  Nobody eats this much food at a regular meal, or with this much variety, but at a wedding the plates are heaping full.  My niece and I shared a plate of food, since she is a fairly light eater and I am not a happy person when I eat that much food at once. 
I sat there for most of the time they were serving and distributing the food totally anxious about whether or not they would have enough. I needn’t have concerned myself.  They fed 200+ heaping plates, no problem.
The bride had a beautiful long white dress, very much like you would see at home. The groom and all his men were dressed in smart grey suits with purple shirts and all the bridesmaids were dressed in purple dresses; all the same material but differently styled.
After the food was finished, and we ate the cake (I think, but I was so full I had a memory lapse here), the wedding party danced their way out of the tent, doing traditional dances to less than traditional music, and continued to dance for a while in front of the bride’s family home. At some point she slipped away to change into her travel outfit, and the groom left to go back to my mother’s house to change, while the group continued to dance what reminded me most of country line dances at home.  When the bride was finally changed and the groom returned, each family gathered around their just married family member. The groom’s party stood down the road and the bride’s party in front of her home. Then, each party started singing a different song and danced their way towards the other.  When they met, the bride’s contingent moved to join in with the groom’s side and they all danced their way back to the house, singing one song together, where the guests awaited them.
At this point, most of the older men had already moved to the male gathering area nearby and had assuredly already finished a good deal of the bojalwa ja Setswana – traditional beer – and were getting ready to party for some time.  I would get to try some of it the next day. To me it tastes like really rank alcohol and the reddish brown dirt found everywhere, but maybe I need to give it a second chance.
But it was dark now, and we headed home. It was a rare treat for me to be out walking in the dark and being with my niece, brother’s girlfriend and one of my sisters, I was perfectly safe.  We took turns carrying the two kids, Ally and Tao, who were totally exhausted by then. Apparently a lot of people passing us in the dark were surprised to see a white person, because my niece told me that I was getting a lot of attention. Of course I didn’t know this because I didn’t understand any of what was being said so I will assume they were all complimentary comments.
One of the groom’s family members had told my sister to go home and cook the meat that was filling the refrigerator. I asked my sis what it was and she said “tripe.” Apparently when you kill one or two of those cows to feed everyone, you end up with a lot of tripe. Ugh.  But before we could get to that, she had to walk one of the wedding guests “half way” home to her house, and it was pitch dark. She told me go to with so SHE wouldn’t be walking back alone.  Lucky for all of us, I had my Petzl headlamp with me.  I honestly have no idea how they would have, could have and DO walk in pitch black darkness without a good headlamp.  It was quite popular.
Mom was very tired after all this, and was left with sore feet and a hoarse voice from all her singing and dancing. She and uncle (her deceased husband’s brother) sat outside by the fire drinking the beer.  I sat with them awhile but realized that I would only understand them better if I got drunk, not if they got drunk, and I didn’t feel like drinking any more homebrew tonight.